Here are some pictures of the construction of a Flagship kayak and very basic instructions to provide a general idea of how the project will be accomplished. If you have questions or need advice, please write to FlagshipKayak@Rocketmail.com and we'll try to assist. Search the internet for kits and instructions to build your own kayak. See Chesepeake Light Craft at www.CLCBoats.com for kits, plans, parts and materials. Made in USA - Annapolis Maryland.
*More than 120 men and women have had their first kayaking experience in a Flagship Kayak. Many have gone on to build or buy a kayak and pursue flatwater exploration or marathon racing as a regular hobby or pastime.
We get epoxy from AeroMarine Products - http://www.jgreer.com/ - the prices are very reasonable and the quality is second to none. They list on EBAY as well.
We get our paint from http://www.paintforcars.com/ - the prices are reasonable and the quality is excellent...this is the really tough paint that we need on a kayak. They list on EBAY as well.
The strip material is either special balsa ply (expensive) or a reasonble only slightly heavier alternative is Sande Ply from Home Depot. (It takes three sheets cut into strips to make one boat.) Use Cedar or "pretty" woods if you don't want to paint your boat.
For a "Strip Kayak" - start with a strong, stiff and VERY straight "Strongback" to support the formers. ...*NOTE - "Stitch and Glue" is a totally different technique - See the Chesapeake Lightcraft site above or search the internet for more info.
Buy or design your formers and cut them from 3/4 wood or good grade plywood. *Search the internet for ideas.
Notch them to fit on the strongback and fix them in place.
Ensure that all forms line up perfectly.
Use a string and straight edge and take your time getting the first rows of stripping straight. Use an air or good electric stapler to staple the strips to the forms while the glue dries.
Place glue along the edge of 3/4" wide by 1/4" thick piceces of Cedar or ply. (Use of balsa ply or Sande ply is less expensive but requires painting) Use clamps to hold the strips in line and snug against the adjacent strip while the glue dries.
When both halves are built, remove the staples holding them to the forms and sand the entire boat smooth with a long sanding block. Cover with fiberglass fabric and coat with epoxy resin. Use a build up of fabric that equals 6-10 oz. on the outside and 4-8 oz. on the inside (i.e. 1 layer of six or two layers of 4 or 3 layers of 2.3) Place 6" wide pieces over the center of the boat and especially the underside nose for extra strength. Cover the inside and outside of each half. Trim the fabric hanging over the two halves and join them like a clamshell. Finish with a rim around the cockpit and cut cargo holes if you wish to have storage in the boat. Make and install bulkheads where nessecary to seperate the cargo holds and create an air tight chamber in the nose and tail to prevent a capsized boat from sinking. Prep and paint or shellac as desired. ****MORE detailed pics and instructions coming soon.
Build up the top half of the boat before turning the entire mold over to build the bottom.
For a "Strip Kayak" - start with a strong, stiff and VERY straight "Strongback" to support the formers. ...*NOTE - "Stitch and Glue" is a totally different technique - See the Chesapeake Lightcraft site above or search the internet for more info.
Buy or design your formers and cut them from 3/4 wood or good grade plywood. *Search the internet for ideas.
Notch them to fit on the strongback and fix them in place.
Ensure that all forms line up perfectly.
Use a string and straight edge and take your time getting the first rows of stripping straight. Use an air or good electric stapler to staple the strips to the forms while the glue dries.
Place glue along the edge of 3/4" wide by 1/4" thick piceces of Cedar or ply. (Use of balsa ply or Sande ply is less expensive but requires painting) Use clamps to hold the strips in line and snug against the adjacent strip while the glue dries. 
When both halves are built, remove the staples holding them to the forms and sand the entire boat smooth with a long sanding block. Cover with fiberglass fabric and coat with epoxy resin. Use a build up of fabric that equals 6-10 oz. on the outside and 4-8 oz. on the inside (i.e. 1 layer of six or two layers of 4 or 3 layers of 2.3) Place 6" wide pieces over the center of the boat and especially the underside nose for extra strength. Cover the inside and outside of each half. Trim the fabric hanging over the two halves and join them like a clamshell. Finish with a rim around the cockpit and cut cargo holes if you wish to have storage in the boat. Make and install bulkheads where nessecary to seperate the cargo holds and create an air tight chamber in the nose and tail to prevent a capsized boat from sinking. Prep and paint or shellac as desired. ****MORE detailed pics and instructions coming soon.
Build up the top half of the boat before turning the entire mold over to build the bottom.